Marco Pierre White Courtyard Bar and Grill: The price is White
Marco Pierre White’s new D4 eatery transports you back to a time of ordinary, overpriced food
Her herbed chicken is probably the best dish of the night. The meat is juicy and chalk-pale as if it’s been brined and then finished with a herby crust, with yet more sauce on the side and some decent fondant potato.
My rack of Wicklow lamb (which is five cent short of €30) is disappointing. The meat is sinewy, fatty and a touch watery. The fiery mustard dressing, with more micro-chives, is way too punchy for the lamb. The lowest point is a €4.95 side of five onion rings, so drenched in oil that they drip when you bite down. There’s another €4.95 “beef tomato basil salad” side and it’s just that: a single beef tomato, sliced with yet more micro-herbs and some finely diced shallots.
Desserts are decent but small. My plum crumble has salty nuts in the crumble topping, which is a great touch. Carol’s bread-and-butter pud is an excellent rendition, but thinking about the mark-up that turns such a small portion of bread, eggs, cream, sugar and raisins into an €8.95 dessert hurts my brain.
The only wow of the night is the bill. We’ve had just a glass of wine each, and a lot of tap water. One of us had the early bird and it’s come to almost €60 a head. Good food is worth the spend and I’ll happily put up with catering quantities of guff from chefs if they put something gorgeous on my plate. But that’s not what’s happening here. It’s 2005 again, folks. This place is jumping on a weeknight. Forget green shoots. Ordinary, overpriced food is back.
Dinner for two came to €117.05.
THE VERDICT: For these prices there are better places
Marco Pierre White Courtyard Bar and Grill,
1 Belmont Avenue, Donnybrook
tel:01-5510555
Facilities: Mercifully Marco-free
Music: Background pop
Food provenance: Lots of place names for the fish
Wheelchair access: Yes